install theme
Aug 19, 2014
Ñ Vintage bespoke Claude Rousseau (former cutter at Camps de Luca and Cifonelli)
Luxire fresco trousers

Vintage bespoke Claude Rousseau (former cutter at Camps de Luca and Cifonelli)

Luxire fresco trousers

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Aug 19, 2014
Cher Monsieur, étudiant à Paris, je souhaiterais acheter un premier costume "à mes mesures", le véritable sur-mesure étant pour l'instant hors-budget. Auriez-vous l'aimable attention de me dire quelle est selon vous la meilleure maison pour commencer, avec un budget autour de 500 EUR ? Iriez-vous plutôt vers de la demi-mesure (Handson, Scavini...) ou vers un PAP de qualité (Boggi) ajusté chez un retoucheur ? Je vous prie d'agréer, cher Monsieur, l'expression de mes respectueuses salutations. JL

Cher JL, étant donné votre budget et si vous avez la chance de faire une taille qui se fait dans le prêt à porter, j’irais sans aucun doute chez Boggi pour trouver votre premier costume en sachant qu’ils ont une excellente retoucheuse. Je vous conseille vivement la boutique à l’Opéra. Ils ont une bonne sélection et sont de bon conseil. Le costume sera de meilleure facture que les demi-mesures industrielles d’entrée de gamme. 

Faites votre possible pour acheter un costume bleu marine ou gris, et surtout pas noir.

Paul

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Aug 18, 2014
Ñ Liverano
Finamore
Luxire
Ripense
Meermin
The Amoury lapel chain

Liverano
Finamore
Luxire
Ripense
Meermin
The Amoury lapel chain

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Aug 18, 2014

A VISIT TO THE ARMOURY IN HONG KONG

Paul LUX

A visit to the Armoury in Hong Kong

Traveling to Hong Kong is a great adventure unto itself. There you will find some of the world’s best luxury apparel, time pieces, and wonderful hotels, not to mention an amazing array of well-executed cuisines—ranging from the cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant on the planet (Tim Ho Wan) to a full list of three-stars restaurants.

There is an overwhelming amount of tailors there too, although at this point in time, I’ve built a sufficient level of trust with only a handful of Hong Kong ateliers. Still, amidst the bustling city resides what is most certainly a temple of male elegance : the Armoury.

An introduction to this outstanding place should be hardly necessary, as it is one of the most well known menswear stores around. A knowledgeable and stylish sales force makes spending time with the staff inside the Pedder Building a pleasure, and wandering amongst their wonderful selection of items and shopping a few good finds feels easy and natural.

Mark Cho, Alan See and Jake Grantham continue to offer a tastefully curated selection from some of the best brands out there, which include the likes of Ring Jacket (refer to our article on Tokyo for more details), Carmina, St Crispin’s, Orazio Luciano, Drake’s and of course, the Florentine Master Tailor Antonio Liverano featured in the Gianluca Migliarotti movie, I Colori di Antonio.

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Without a doubt, Jake and Alan have become bona fide tumblr celebrities in the world of classic menswear, continually demonstrating their growing mastery of good taste and elegance.

Here Jake wears an Orazio Luciano suit and an Ascot Chang shirt :

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And here is Alan with a Liverano bespoke suit :

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Amongst recent news, the partnership between Ascot Chang and the Armoury is particularly noteworthy. Ascot Chang produces some of the best long-sleeved polo shirts around, with collars that sit perfectly under a sport coat or suit jacket. The pique cotton is lovely, and breathes remarkably well too, which makes for a comfortable wear in all types of climates, including tropical weather. The fit is reasonably slim, and fits much better than what is generally seen in other usual-suspect-brands. Pair the polo shirt with cotton chinos and a pair of tassel loafers for a great summer look.

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Alan’s pick for Summer

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Jake’s pick for Fall / Winter

Liverano & Liverano ready to wear button down shirt, Ambrosi bespoke aqua cords, Drake’s cashmere tie, Carmina suede tassel loafers,
Fox Brothers flannel jacketing fabric, to be used with Orazio Luciano or CiccioDrake’s pocket square.

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If you’re ever in Hong Kong, do yourself a favour and stop by the Armoury. Not only does the staff at the Armoury provide great style inspiration, but in my experience, they can also be trusted to nudge most any gentleman on a sartorial journey in the right direction.

Paul Lux : http://paul-lux.tumblr.com

The Armoury : http://thearmoury.com

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Aug 17, 2014

THE NEW GENERATION OF BESPOKE TAILORING KEVIN SEAH

The New Generation of Bespoke Tailoring  Kevin Seah

These days, it is unusual to find a young man whose dream is to become a Master Tailor. But every once in a while a new young talent comes along that commands our attention. Such is the case with Kevin Seah, a skilled artisan belonging to a very small guild of young up-and-coming craftsmen.

The current shortage of skilled tailors raises the question of whether the demand for handmade suits will exceed the supply, potentially driving bespoke prices to new heights in the process. While the renewal of interest in classic menswear is turning the tide and enticing more people to enter the field of tailoring, whether enough people will enter the trade in order to keep up with demand is still in question.

Already we have witnessed examples of the younger generation taking the helm of two successful tailoring houses that we like a lot : Manolo Costa in New York and B & Tailor in Korea. However, in Singapore, experienced tailoring houses are few and far between (compared to Hong Kong, for example), and so a house like Kevin Seah’s is a sight for the Singaporean-sartorial-man’s sore eyes.

Before opening his tailoring operation five years ago, Kevin Seah was fast at work creating beautiful handmade wedding and evening gowns. However, his passion for menswear eventually got the upper hand, and led him to ditch dressmaking in favor of crafting suits.

Kevin’s riverside bespoke atelier in Singapore is well worth a visit. Having a suit made by Mr. Seah is like enjoying the services of not only a tailor, but also a private designer, who wants to understand everything about his customer before the first cut and stitch is put to the cloth. Kevin doesn’t believe in promoting a specific house-style and prefers to work with one customer silhouette at a time in order to create a suit made specifically for the client’s morphology–a unique approach that requires a little more work and lot more listening than is rendered at most ateliers.

In the Singapore atelier, you will find a great selection of ties, pocket squares, lapel pins, Gaziano & Girling shoes, custom-made polo shirts, bespoke jeans in all sorts of denim (including 16 oz Japanese raw denim), MTM and bespoke suits and sport coats, as well as the first shoe shine and patina bar to be installed in the country.

Gaziano GirlingKevin Seah Bespoke

Kevin Seah Singapore

Hats

The bespoke atelier of Kevin resembles a Gentleman’s Club with a smoking parlor on the top floor complete with vintage leather club chairs and couches and a respectable selection of cigars and whiskey. In order to bring together men who like elegant clothing, Kevin believes in creating a place where men will want to stop in for a drink and a chat without feeling pressured to buy anything.

A rare approach that seems to be working ; as Kevin’s clientele now ranges from bankers to rock stars eager to commission their next suit. The tailoring climate in Singapore feels different from the rest of the world. There is none of the familiar British stiffness, nor Italian bravado that some of us have come to know and expect. Instead, there is an air of friendliness in the atelier that feels so welcoming that you will want to stay for a while…

Singapore Tailor

Over the course of two days at Kevin Seah’s, I ran into two true gentlemen that I have had the past pleasure of meeting :

Simone Ubertino Rosso, Head of Communication at Vitale Barberis Canonico, and Charles de Luca, cutter at Camps de Luca, son of venerable Master Tailor Marc de Luca. Where else in the world could that happen ?

Kevin Seah

Kevin Seah

Kevin’s offering also includes made-to-measure suits, which provides a stepping stone for those not quite ready for the full bespoke experience. His bespoke garments are fully canvassed, and the buttonholes are created according to a special blend of techniques to create a unique brand of milanese that has become known as Kevin’s signature.

Milanese buttonhole

Kevin Seah Milanese

Mr. Seah takes the measurements, and performs the fittings and the finishing works on all jackets and trousers, which includes the hand stitching and the buttonholes. His trusted cutters perform the cuts for the initial construction. The final product is quite remarkable, given the fact that Kevin performs at least three fittings, guarantees customer satisfaction and remains reasonably priced at around 4,000 SGD for a bespoke suit (around 2400 EUR).

Garments are crafted based on the client’s morphology and preferences, and often includes specific details such as leather side adjusters on the trousers or jeans with tweed back pockets. The house is particularly open to suggestions, which is a nice change from the many houses that are all too often reluctant to deviate from their house style.

MTM suits are fully canvassed with some machine work, including the buttonholes–with prices starting at 2, 500 SGD, or 1500€.

Bespoke Tailoring

MTM

made to measure

Kevin Seah Tailor

Kevin Seah

Kevin Seah

Kevin Seah Singapore

Kevin Seah will present a few trunk shows in the Autumn, and visit Bangkok and possibly Europe in the coming year. Stay tuned — I feel we haven’t heard the last from this talented young man.

Bonus : stop by the shoe shine bar for a whiskey shine, and be sure to ask for the shine menu !

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Paul Lux (http://paul-lux.tumblr.com)

To know more about Kevin Seah :

Website : http://kevinseah.com

Tumblr : http://kevinseahbespoke.tumblr.com

Online project : http://sartorialsin.tumblr.com

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Aug 16, 2014

Bespoke Sartoria Ripense travel jacket

Ascot Chang polo shirt for the Armoury

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Aug 15, 2014

subskin:

DB Sportscoat in Fintes by Drago 100% Cashmere by B&TAILOR (http://subskin.tumblr.com/post/93680868977)

One of the best dressed gentlemen I’ve met

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Aug 15, 2014
Ñ Bespoke Sartorial Ripense
Dior Homme jeans
Ascot Chang for the Armoury long sleeve polo shirt

Bespoke Sartorial Ripense
Dior Homme jeans
Ascot Chang for the Armoury long sleeve polo shirt

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Aug 14, 2014
Ñ The great Charles de Luca from Camps de Luca

The great Charles de Luca from Camps de Luca

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Aug 14, 2014
Ñ Kevin Seah bespoke hallway, Singapore

Kevin Seah bespoke hallway, Singapore

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Aug 13, 2014
Ñ Bespoke process with B&TAILOR

Bespoke process with B&TAILOR

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Aug 13, 2014

subskin:

With Paul-lux in Hong Kong

(via forno)

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Aug 11, 2014
Ñ Sartoria Ripense travel jacket

Sartoria Ripense travel jacket

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Aug 11, 2014

The Armoury, Hong Kong

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