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Jul 25, 2014
Bonjour, j'hésite en ce moment entre commander une veste d'été Madison (croisée) en coton-lin et une Washington bleue marine en mélange laine-lin-soie-cachemire (par Carlo Barbera). Je préfère la Madison pour sa coupe, mais j'ai peur que le tombé de la veste ne soit pas très bon. Que pensez-vous des mélanges lin-coton et de leur tombé. Merci d'avance pour vos conseils avisés. Arnaud

Bonjour, je prendrais la Washington et irais chez le retoucheur pour ajuster la coupe. Le tissu Carlo Barbera aura un meilleur tombé et sera moins froissable.

Les mélanges lin-coton sont très agréables à porter mais froissent rapidement.

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Jul 24, 2014
Ñ Bespoke Sartora Ripense

Bespoke Sartora Ripense

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Jul 24, 2014
Ñ Andrea Luparelli
Sartoria Ripense

Andrea Luparelli
Sartoria Ripense

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Jul 23, 2014
Ñ Bespoke Sartoria Ripense mohair double breasted sport coat
Mtm Luxire trousers
Bespoke cotton zephyr shirt by Lucca
Tie by Sartoria Ripense
Meermin

Bespoke Sartoria Ripense mohair double breasted sport coat
Mtm Luxire trousers
Bespoke cotton zephyr shirt by Lucca
Tie by Sartoria Ripense
Meermin

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Jul 23, 2014
Thank you so much. You are probably right about getting to 4-5 suits rather quickly. Last question, would you buy the Havana Traveler or a dark grey Havana in "pure wool", or should I only go for 110s+? Cheers.

Don’t pay too much attention to the 100/110/150/200s. It’s vastly overrated by sales departments…

The Havana traveler seems like a good choice to me

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Jul 22, 2014
Thanks for your reply re suits. I'm going back on forth between getting one La Spalla (or Jort, just don't know if patch pockets are too comtemporary in a business environment?) or two Napoli's. I guess "buy less, buy better" applies here (I'm only going to use suits two, may three, times a week). Also, while I have you, do you happen to know Camiceria Olga (MTM shirts)?

I’d say buy less, buy better indeed. However it depends how many suits you have. If you have one or two, it’s better to get to five relatively not to worn them out fast.

Definitely prefer La Spalla to Jort

Regarding Camiceria Olga, I’d say: if it’s too god to be true, then it’s too good to be true. 

Opt for Kamakura shirts or Luxire (only the top fabrics like Alumo or Gandi & Rubinelli).

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Jul 21, 2014
2nd fitting at Sartoria Ripense

2nd fitting at Sartoria Ripense

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Jul 21, 2014
Hi Paul! Your impeccable style causes me to think that you're the right to ask this question. I'm a university student trying to build up my formal wardrobe. Got at solid navy Suitsupply so far - need two more. First, would you go Suitsupply or MTM (such as Black Lapel)? And second, I haven't seen you in a solid charcoal suit. Personally, I think solid charcoal is a little dull. I prefer navy, but don't know if charcoal is a must have? Leaning more towards navy herringbone and med. grey? Cheers.

Hi,

I’m happy you feel that I might be able to answer your question. Basically, charcoal is definitely a must and works well. I own several, actually 3 charcoal suits. 

I’d definitely opt for SuitSupply over most MTM programs as most of them are disappointing, especially given the fact that they have so many cuts / lines that it’s difficult not to find a good one for you. 

Charcoal gives you the perfect opportunity to play a lot with ties and shirts (especially with patterns). Mid grey is a solid choice as well.

If it’s within your budget, do opt for “La Spalla” line which is fully canvassed and has very nice details (in addition to being fully canvassed at probably one of the lowest retail prices on the market).

Best,

Paul

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Jul 20, 2014

Sartoria Formosa
Napoli

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Jul 19, 2014

Fitting at Sartoria Ripense

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Jul 17, 2014
Hello Paul, First, thank you for your tumblr, sartorial inspiration is so rare in the workplace that people like you have helped shape the way I dress. Question: from what I gather you spend some time in Luxembourg. Could you give me any names of decent seamstresses or tailors that could do suit alterations? Also any good advice on Luxembourg is welcome. Best regards, Nicolas

Hi Nicolas,

My pleasure! I actually live in Luxembourg. The best alterations place is by far Retouches Manu, rue des Bains. They work extremely well and even changed a Brioni shoulder to something much better than it used to be. I trust them with everything.

Best,

Paul

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Jul 16, 2014

Having a shirt made at D’Avino during Pitti Uomo

80% of the shirt is handmade

Fitting this Friday in Napoli

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